Ride South Central B.C. Canada

September is my favorite month for riding. There are few motor-homes still out clogging the highways.

Family Station Wagons are mostly parked in driveways back home as the kids head to school.

Weather is usually warm and dry.

There is still enough daylight at this time of year in southern Canada to offer a long day of riding, and still have enough time after the bike is parked to enjoy a leisurely dinner, a few beer, and some good fellowship.

This past September (09) five of us decided to take a five day run through some of the most spectacular riding roads to be found anywhere in the N.W. corner of North America. We were four bikes and one of my companions had his daughter with him riding two up.

The height of this adventure begins at a small resort nestled on the eastern side of the Canadian Rockies just west of the town of Rocky Mountain House Alberta.

We stayed overnight at the David Thompson Resort an isolated but a favorite summer spot providing full facilities for campers and RVs. They also have modest but good motel rooms, a pretty decent restaurant, a gas bar, convenience store and a gift shop.


We arrived Friday 9/11. This is very late in their season, they board this resort up for the winter by the 15th of September every year.

Saturday morning we started with a hearty breakfast before making our individual decisions to wear or not to wear long underwear and or to put on an extra sweater before heading out.

When you first swing your leg over your bike up here in the mountains the air is so crisp and clean it fills your lungs with the promise that this will be one the best riding day of your life.

In this regard the massive natural monoliths of the Canadian Rockies never disappoint.

The smooth pavement winds it's way around the Goliath mountains and in the morning you are constantly passing through a transition from sunlight to shade and back into the warmth of the sun. It took about 90 minutes before the sun was high enough to consistently shine on us as we rode through the valley.

We swung south at the Saskatchewan River Crossing and traversed the southern part of Canada's world famous Icefield Parkway. The view along this historic route is breath taking and we pulled over to take our first full rest stop at a beautiful mountain lodge.

We sat at the picnic bench and sipped a cold drink as we sat taking in the warmth of the morning sun. The place was so beautiful the guys took a stroll down to the waters edge and took a few pictures of the lake and the lacier which feeds it.



From here we continued south on the parkway to where it joins the Trans Canada Highway. We turned right heading for Revelstoke B.C. Highway #1 is like an interstate hwy, busy with fast paced traffic and lots of trucks.

Although I avoid this route as much as possible in this case it is the only realistic way to get to where we needed to be.

Revelstoke is a modern active railroad mountain community. Stylish in it's architecture, offering full services, along with many interesting historic sites and museums. It has some excellent accommodations and tastefully decorated places to dine. This place offers a great night life for the younger crowd of summer hikers and winter skiers. It is a great place to spend a few days but on this occasion we were just passing through.

Revelstoke is also the starting point for one of the most sensational bike runs in the mid west section of North America. Hwy 23 runs south of Revelstoke along the west side of Arrow Lake 50 km to Shelter Bay. The road is like a smooth roller coaster as it winds and undulates gently through towering pine groves. An occasional peek through the trees gives you a sneak preview of the beautiful scenery which awaits.


At Shelter Bay you catch the Ferry across the lake to Galena Bay for another 50km run into Nakusp. This is a spectacular ride with windy roads, and vista views of clear deep blue waters of Upper Arrow Lake.


No trip is perfect and there is always a little unexpected excitement to be had, ours came as we rode down into the town of Nakusp. Just as we descended into the community the first motel came into view and I noticed the No Vacancy sign was on.


I thought that was rather strange. Sure I would expect a no vacancy sign in the height of the summer, but this was September, the off season. Ahh... they probably just forgot to turn it off. We worked our way towards the downtown and the hotel I always stay at. As we passed the second motel I saw another no vacancy sign, and I felt a cold draft on the nap of my neck.


We parked at the Leeland Hotel on the water front . My back was pretty sore form the ride so I stayed on my bike while my buddies went inside to check on availiability of rooms. The guys spent more than an hour on the phone searching for a room. Nothing, I mean nothing, not in Nakusp nor any other town within 150 km. The closest they found was 2 rooms in Castlegar. The truth is I wasn't up to making another 150 km and I was also very worried about any of us being on the road after dark. Nakusp and roads south are notoriously stupid for deer.



I wish to say the manager/owner of the Leeland Hotel was such a great help in trying to find a room for us. She called everyone in town she could think of to help us out, but to no avail.


My Buddies came out to the parking lot to give me the bad news. Just then a young woman approached us as we were preparing to pull out.
At the bequest of the manager of the hotel she informed us that she and her husband were building an apartment in their basement. It wasn't quite finished, but perhaps we could get by for the one night.

We followed her up the mountain to her home and couldn't believe our luck. Rebeca & William Jewell (250 265-8043) are building a small resort especially suited for bikers. Will is a carpenter and the place was beautiful. They hope to rent the apartment out by the week for those of us who wish to stay and explore the area for a few days, which I promise you is a great idea.

They have worked really hard on the place which will be ready for the 2010 season. They have prepared a lovely manicured area for tents and small trailers. Will took an old school bus and converted it into a posh motorhome. Three of us took the motorhome and let Daryl and his daughter have the apartment.


For me this was the best night of the trip, sitting around the fire pit, having some dinner and a few drinks. This place backs onto the golf course, and there is a horse riding stable is just down the road. Definitely the place I will stay on my next trip to Nakusp, though I will book ahead no matter what time of year it is.

The next day we rode to New Denver where we stopped for a hearty breakfast at an outdoor cafe. The ride form there over to Kaslo is is 47 km of sensational switchbacks, not a straight stretch of road to be seen.

I am sure the scenery is great but you really have to keep focused on the road so although it is a great ride the best views come later.

The drive to Balfour is a little more relaxing and you are rewarded with breath taking views of Kootney Lake

The ferry ride over to Kootney Bay gives you a nice hour rest, an opportunity to stretch your legs, take some photos or just relax.



After you get off the ferry it is a short ride up the hill and over to Crawford Bay. This is a small community with one gas station and one motel.

Despite it's diminutive size this is a great place if you like arts and crafts. I always take time to explore the several shops and pick up a few quality gifts for those I had too leave behind.

I found a hand woven make up bag for my daughter and a pair of glass blown, hand made ear-rings for my wife. The rest of the guys also dropped some good coin before we left.

All the way south to Creston the ride is sensational, gentle, scenic, the kind of experience that makes you promise to return, no matter how many times you have already had the pleasure.

I always enjoy staying in Creston but on this trip our respective work schedules really insisted we push on to Cranbrook. We turned left onto Hwy #3, one of my favorite roads.


Traffic on this highway is a little heavier then the previous days route down along the lakes, but even so it is an easy going and a pleasant ride. This is a historic route with lore about gold panning and lost gold mines. The valley is for the most part wide, offering panoramic views of the mountains all the way to the Alberta border.

Just into Alberta is the Crowsnest Pass and the famous town of Frank where an avalanche buried the entire town under huge boulders. All died save one small baby which was found miraculously perched atop a huge boulder in the centre of the slide.


When you pass out of the mountains onto the foothills you will be greeted by large windmills and the pleasant community of Pincher Creek. I recommend you allow yourself three to five days to make this journey, anything less and you are selling yourself short. Of all the routes you can take in this part of the world, the Revelstoke to Creston run is made for those of us who love







Riding Iron.